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The Heron A-1 Custom

Named for both the majestic Canadian waterbird and the White Heron castle in Japan, near where our leather is sourced, the Heron A-1 style or Cossack jacket was the first Cossack jacket in the heritage market and was Himel Bros. first jacket offering.

Based on a very primitive early 1930s style the Cossack jacket had the simplistic beauty of naive tailoring and construction with the excess of the 1930s. The style itself was adopted by the military in its earliest flight jacket designs and was designated the A-1. This design was associated with adventurers and early sportspersons and could be seen on everyone from Earhartt to Byrd.

Distinctive features include the use of original old stock cat eye buttons and buttonholes sewn with our vintage Reece 101 buttonhole machines. This jacket has a very large single piece back panel, evocative of early construction methods when leather wastage was not a major concern. That plain-back design has no gussets or other expansion engineering which became commonplace after WWII. The shawl collar was re-introduced to fashion in 2010 by Himel Bros. and we feel our hand drawn patterns and organic lines create the best profile for this style of jacket. 

The Himel Bros. Heron is often replicated, but never beaten.

MORE INFORMATION ABOUT SPECIAL FEATURES

STOCK SIZE MEASUREMENTS

Leather

Shinki Horsehide Black Pigment Finish

This is a pigment (paint) finished natural brown horsehide. The smell is the distinctive leathery smell of shinki mimosa tanned HH. The leather pigment finished with a medium hard pigment designed to wear over time and show the lighter teacore underneath. This gives the jacket a worn feeling that develops character over time. The leather is typically 1.2 to 1.3 mm or (2.5 to 2.75 oz) and can come smooth or grainy. Like all vegetable tanned leather fully shrunken grains will pop up and create ripples over time especially after getting wet that will mould the jacket to the wearer and develop character.

Shinki Horsehide Black Oil Tanned

This is a drum dyed black on black horsehide. The smell is the distinctive leathery smell of shinki mimosa tanned horsehide. The leather is then lightly pigment finished with a coating of oil and wax to give a glossy top coat that dulls over time with wear. The base colour never shows through due to the black underdye keeping the jacket black for a lifetime. The leather feels heavier to the hand due to the weight of the drum dye and the oils and waxes embued in the top coat. The leather is typically 1.2 to 1.3 mm or (2.5 to 2.75 oz) and can come smooth or grainy. Like all vegetable tanned leather fully shrunken grains will pop up and create ripples over time especially after getting wet that will mould the jacket to the wearer and develop character.

Shinki Horsehide Dark Brown Oil Tanned

The smell is the distinctive leathery smell of shinki mimosa tanned HH. The leather is then lightly pigment finished with a coating of oil and wax to give a glossy top coat that dulls over time with wear. The base colour will show through due to the natural mimosa colour of the leather underneath the top coat. The leather feels heavier to the hand due to the weight of the drum dye and the oils and waxes embued in the top coat. The leather is typically 1.2 to 1.3 mm or (2.5 to 2.75 oz) and can come smooth or grainy. Like all vegetable tanned leather fully shrunken grains will pop up and create ripples over time especially after getting wet that will mould the jacket to the wearer and develop character.

Shinki Horsehide Medium Brown Pigment Finish

This is a pigment (paint) finished natural brown horsehide. The smell is the distinctive leathery smell of shinki mimosa tanned HH. The leather pigment finished with a medium hard pigment designed to wear over time and show the lighter teacore underneath. This gives the jacket a worn feeling that develops character over time. The leather feels heavier to the hand due to the weight of the drum dye and the oils and waxes embued in the top coat. The leather is typically 1.2 to 1.3 mm or (2.5 to 2.75 oz) and can come smooth or grainy. Like all vegetable tanned leather fully shrunken grains will pop up and create ripples over time especially after getting wet that will mould the jacket to the wearer and develop character.

Shinki Horsehide Medium Brown Oil Tanned

The smell is the distinctive leathery smell of shinki mimosa tanned HH. The leather is then lightly pigment finished with a coating of oil and wax to give a glossy top coat that dulls over time with wear. The base colour will show through due to the natural mimosa colour of the leather underneath the top coat. The leather is typically 1.2 to 1.3 mm or (2.5 to 2.75 oz) and can come smooth or grainy. Like all vegetable tanned leather fully shrunken grains will pop up and create ripples over time especially after getting wet that will mould the jacket to the wearer and develop character.

Indian Goatskin Black

The best goatskins come from India and we order our goat specially specifying larger hides. They are vegetable tanned fully shrunken uncorrected full grain skins. The skins are tanned to bring up a beautiful pebble finish then spray dyed, oiled and wax coated. The goatskins feel very heavy yet very bendy and are primed to break in and mold to the body very quickly. The black colour is dyed right through and the medium brown and dark brown will show the natural lighter colour of the undyed skin with wear over time. According to the tannery they are certified environmentally friendly with full treatment of waste water, and use of green dyes and waxes.

Indian Goatskin Dark Brown

The best goatskins come from India and we order our goat specially specifying larger hides. They are vegetable tanned fully shrunken uncorrected full grain skins. The skins are tanned to bring up a beautiful pebble finish then spray dyed, oiled and wax coated. The goatskins feel very heavy yet very bendy and are primed to break in and mold to the body very quickly. The black colour is dyed right through and the medium brown and dark brown will show the natural lighter colour of the undyed skin with wear over time. According to the tannery they are certified environmentally friendly with full treatment of waste water, and use of green dyes and waxes.

Indian Goatskin Medium Brown

The best goatskins come from India and we order our goat specially specifying larger hides. They are vegetable tanned fully shrunken uncorrected full grain skins. The skins are tanned to bring up a beautiful pebble finish then spray dyed, oiled and wax coated. The goatskins feel very heavy yet very bendy and are primed to break in and mold to the body very quickly. The black colour is dyed right through and the medium brown and dark brown will show the natural lighter colour of the undyed skin with wear over time. According to the tannery they are certified environmentally friendly with full treatment of waste water, and use of green dyes and waxes.

Lining

Black Cotton Twill

Heavyweight cotton twill ideal for long wear. Good for its slippery surface to ease into a jacket and for keeping an even temperature in a leather jacket for all seasons. We use black twill for our sleeve liners and pocket liners.

Khaki Twill

Heavyweight cotton twill ideal for long wear. Good for its slippery surface to ease into a jacket and for keeping an even temperature in a leather jacket for all seasons.

Maple Ochre Flannel

Our flannels are medium weight brushed flannels replicating the provincial tartans of the provinces of Canada. The brushed flannel provides all weather temperature wear and is soft to the touch. While light it provides medium wear life as compared to stronger and smoother twill fabrics.

Stewart Tartan Flannel

Our flannels are medium weight brushed flannels replicating the provincial tartans of the provinces of Canada. The brushed flannel provides all weather temperature wear and is soft to the touch. While light it provides medium wear life as compared to stronger and smoother twill fabrics.

Japanese Tigerstripe Camo

This is a replica of Tigerstripe used in the Vietnam war. One of many variants, this tigerstripe was reproduced in a heavy weight cotton twill in Japan.

HBT Camo Green

HBT frogskin Camo was one of the earliest camos introduced in WW2 for jungle fighting. This faithfully reproduced doublesided camo is green frogskin jungle and brown frogskin camo beach side. Reproduced on a heavy weight cotton twill in Japan.

Mitchell Camo

This is a replica of the famed Mitchell camo developed in the 1950s with its iconic leaf pattern. Used in limited amounts in Korea and Vietnam by the US military this pattern was authentically replicated in Japan in a heavy weight cotton twill.

Japanese Troy Striped Wool

Troy Woolen Mills was one of the oldest woolen mills in the USA, established in 1813. Troy wool liners were iconic in early North American work wear. The striped pattern was a standard in early denim manufacture. We have sourced replica striped woolen liners from mills in Japan that replicate iconic liners of the early period of workwear. Selection of the Troy Striped Wool will result in a $50 additional charge due to fabric cost.

Navy Blue Pendleton Wool

We have limited supplies of Pendleton woolen liners. This is an early American Woolen mill established in the 19th century famed for its high quality woolen blankets.

Black Pendleton Wool

We have limited supplies of Pendleton woolen liners. This is an early American Woolen mill established in the 19th century famed for its high quality woolen blankets.

Burgundy Pendleton Wool

We have limited supplies of Pendleton woolen liners. This is an early American Woolen mill established in the 19th century famed for its high quality woolen blankets.

Brown Wool

Milled in Montreal Quebec we have a limited supply of heavy weight wool Melton for liners.

Measurements (Optional)
CLICK HERE TO LEARN HOW TO USE OUR CUSTOM ORDER SYSTEM BODY MEASUREMENTS
JACKET MEASUREMENTS
How to Order

 

How to order a custom jacket:

This is a brief explanation of how to order a custom Himel Bros. leather jacket.  Many jacket buyers will have previous experience with tailoring or may own other custom pieces, and as a result have a very clear picture of their style and size. The following fitting primer is written for the first time buyer.

Selecting your style: 

Think about your fashion style.  If you ask your friends, they’ll probably be aware of your look and style.  Are you classic, a sportsman, a rockstar, a motorcyclist or maybe a hero?  Each Himel Bros. jacket has an iconic look ranging from staid to outrageous.  When selecting a jacket it’s important to take careful consideration of what works best with body type and your personal style.  The Heron, for example, has a looser fit and suits the widest range of body types, whereas the motorcycle styles are slimmer, and best suited to an athletic body type.  Typically, most people can be grouped into three main body types: the average build, the muscular build, and the husky build.  Our jackets are built for an average build, so it is important that if you are muscular or husky that you include that in a note.  We of course ask for photos in a tight t-shirt front and side to assess your posture and build. 

Selecting your size: 

Once you have been through our instagram and social media and have settled on your desired style, the next step is finding your correct size.  There are two important factors to consider in this process: your body size and jacket size.  Your chest measurement corresponds to our stock size.  For most people this is all you will need.  If your chest measurement under your armpits is 40 inches you will wear a size 40 jacket.  We have a video that shows you how to do it yourself, or you can see your local tailor (the first timer will likely need to do this).  It is important to assess your arm and waist measures as well.  Consider if you are average or if you have monkey arms or a big belly as any unusual proportions will have to be addressed through the ordering process.  Below we offer a diagram you can have filled in by a local tailor or a friend with a measuring tape.  For a first timer with an average build, our stock sizes are usually sufficient, so when in doubt stick with that. 

If you are concerned about fit and still not confident as to your correct size, you also have the option to ship us a properly fitting jacket and we’ll build-up your jacket from that.  Ideally the jacket you send us will be of a similar style to the one you’re ordering (leather jackets obviously are best for this purpose).  Before you ship us your jacket, make sure to take pictures of youself wearing it so we can assess fit: at minimum we require a side shot and a front shot. Then arrange at your cost to ship the jacket to Himel Bros.  Please note this on the order in the notes section.  Your jacket will be shipped back with your new bespoke Himel Bros. jacket.

For the more particular or tailored order, you can send us very specific measurements.  For example some gentlemen have thicker wrists or lift weights and require a different flatter shoulder slope or wider cuff.  If off the rack jackets pop up on the shoulders it is usually due to a muscular posture and you should let us know.  So in our video you can use measurements from a similar jacket in style to the one you are ordering.  Of course we would appreciate pictures of you in that jacket front and side if you are using measurements from an actual jacket.  Review the illustrations throughout this website that detail where to measure to provide us with accurate measurement for your custom jacket.  It is not required to give us all the measurements, just the ones you want changed.  Any specific custom measures or features you wish on your jacket we will need them in advance and in a note when you order. 

Picking your leather:

We provide lots of information about our leather types, colours, finishes and characteristics.  The order page gives you all the available options.  For anything else you will have to email us in advance of ordering.  Our instagram feed shows lots of examples of our custom jacket orders. 

Picking thread colour, liners and special features: 

We offer images and descriptions of all our liners, threads, buttons and zips.  Generally each style comes with its stock options on buttons and zips, however you can chose your liner and thread.  If you like to showcase our superior sewing techniques contrast thread is the best option.  If you like a flashy liner or prefer something more more staid we have options for you.  Extra pockets or other options are possible it is best to email us in advance.  You can even choose between brass or nickel silver hardware.