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Learn About Our Leather

Introduction

This page details all the leather types that Himel Bros. carries in stock—including the specialty leathers not available on stock jackets. If you'd like to purchase a jacket made with a nonstandard option, please email info@himelbros.com to discuss the available stocks and pricing. 

All our European and Japanese tanneries have been visited by Himel Bros., and are certified environmentally friendly, with green inputs and wastewater that is treated to drinkable. We try as best we can to know our supply chain and work with the best environmental operations and humane suppliers.

 

Standard Leathers

Shinki Horsehide Leathers—Made in Himeji, Japan

Shinki Tannery uses top quality sourced horsehides and pit tans them with a full grain uncorrected finish. Shinki Horsehide has become synonymous with Himel Bros. products. It's iconic, tough, and gorgeous. 

 

Black Oil Tanned Wax Finish

Shinki Horsehide Black Oil Tan Swatch

This is a drum dyed black on black horsehide. The smell is the distinctive leathery smell of shinki mimosa tanned horsehide. The leather is then lightly pigment finished with a coating of oil and wax to give a glossy top coat that dulls over time with wear. The base colour never shows through due to the black underdye keeping the jacket black for a lifetime. The leather feels heavier to the hand due to the weight of the drum dye and the oils and waxes imbued in the top coat. The leather is typically 1.2 to 1.3 mm or (2.5 to 2.75 oz) and can come smooth or grainy. Like all vegetable tanned leather fully shrunken grains will pop up and create ripples over time especially after getting wet that will mould the jacket to the wearer and develop character.

 

Black Pigment Finish

 

This is a pigment (paint) finished natural brown horsehide. The smell is the distinctive leathery smell of shinki mimosa tanned HH. The leather pigment finished with a medium hard pigment designed to wear over time and show the lighter teacore underneath. This gives the jacket a worn feeling that develops character over time.  The leather is typically 1.2 to 1.3 mm or (2.5 to 2.75 oz) and can come smooth or grainy. Like all vegetable tanned leather fully shrunken grains will pop up and create ripples over time especially after getting wet that will mould the jacket to the wearer and develop character.

 

Dark Brown Oil Tanned Wax Finish

Shinki Horsehide Dark Brown Oil Tanned

The smell is the distinctive leathery smell of shinki mimosa tanned HH. The leather is then lightly pigment finished with a coating of oil and wax to give a glossy top coat that dulls over time with wear. The base colour will show through due to the natural mimosa colour of the leather underneath the top coat. The leather feels heavier to the hand due to the weight of the drum dye and the oils and waxes embued in the top coat. The leather is typically 1.2 to 1.3 mm or (2.5 to 2.75 oz) and can come smooth or grainy. Like all vegetable tanned leather fully shrunken grains will pop up and create ripples over time especially after getting wet that will mould the jacket to the wearer and develop character.

 

Medium Brown Oil Tanned Wax Finish

Shinki Horsehide Medium Brown Oil Tanned

The smell is the distinctive leathery smell of shinki mimosa tanned HH. The leather is then lightly pigment finished with a coating of oil and wax to give a glossy top coat that dulls over time with wear. The base colour will show through due to the natural mimosa colour of the leather underneath the top coat.  The leather is typically 1.2 to 1.3 mm or (2.5 to 2.75 oz) and can come smooth or grainy. Like all vegetable tanned leather fully shrunken grains will pop up and create ripples over time especially after getting wet that will mould the jacket to the wearer and develop character.

 

Medium Brown Pigment Finish

Shinki Horsehide Medium Brown Pigment Finish

This is a pigment (paint) finished natural brown horsehide. The smell is the distinctive leathery smell of shinki mimosa tanned HH. The leather pigment finished with a medium hard pigment designed to wear over time and show the lighter teacore underneath. This gives the jacket a worn feeling that develops character over time. The leather feels heavier to the hand due to the weight of the drum dye and the oils and waxes embued in the top coat. The leather is typically 1.2 to 1.3 mm or (2.5 to 2.75 oz) and can come smooth or grainy. Like all vegetable tanned leather fully shrunken grains will pop up and create ripples over time especially after getting wet that will mould the jacket to the wearer and develop character.

 

Victoria Italian Horsehide—Made at Victoria Tannery, Santa Croce Italy

Black Pigment

Victoria Horsehide Black

This is a fully vegetable drum tanned Horsehide leather that is lightly corrected made in a small tannery in Italy. The leather is 1.2 mm (2.5 oz) horsehide with a mild woody smell. The black pigment sits atop a mimosa tanned natural colour tea core horsehide and the undercolour will show through over time. Italian horsehide starts with a pebbly even finish but will quickly develop grain and a wavy character once the jacket is worn. The weight of the leather will feel heavier over time especially if the jacket is wetted in rain or mist.

 

Dark Brown Semi-Aniline/Pigment

Victoria Horsehide Dark Brown

This is a fully vegetable drum tanned seal-coloured Horsehide leather that is lightly corrected, made in a small tannery in Italy. The leather is 1.2 mm (2.5 oz) horsehide with a mild woody smell. The semitransparent pigment (paint/dye) sits atop a mimosa tanned natural colour tea core horsehide and the under colour will show through over time. Italian horsehide starts with a pebbly even finish but will quickly develop grain and a wavy character once the jacket is worn. The weight of the leather will feel heavier over time especially if the jacket is wetted in rain or mist.

 

Medium Brown

Victoria Horsehide Medium Brown

This is a fully vegetable drum-tanned russet-coloured horsehide leather that is lightly corrected made in a small tannery in Italy. The leather is 1.2 mm (2.5 oz) horsehide with a mild woody smell. The semitransparent pigment sits atop a mimosa tanned natural-colour tea core horsehide, and the undercolour will show through over time. Italian horsehide starts with a pebbly even finish but will quickly develop grain and a wavy character once the jacket is worn. The weight of the leather will feel heavier over time especially if the jacket is wetted in rain or mist.

 

Indian Tanned Kailash Goatskin

Indian Goatskin BlackIndian Goatskin Dark Brown

We offer this goatskin in three colours Black, Dark Brown and Medium Brown

The best goatskins come from India and we order our goat specially specifying larger hides. They are vegetable tanned fully shrunken uncorrected full grain skins. The skins are tanned to bring up a beautiful pebble finish then spray dyed, oiled and wax coated. The goatskins feel very heavy yet very bendy and are primed to break in and mold to the body very quickly. The black colour is dyed right through and the medium brown and dark brown will show the natural lighter colour of the undyed skin with wear over time. According to the tannery they are certified environmentally friendly with full treatment of waste water, and use of green dyes and waxes.

Specialty Leathers

Please note that examples of specialty leathers are available on request. 

 

Specialty Color Shinki (Pearl White)

 

This is a pigment (paint) finished natural brown horsehide. The smell is the distinctive leathery smell of shinki mimosa tanned HH. The leather pigment finished with a medium hard pigment designed to wear over time and show the lighter teacore underneath. This gives the jacket a worn feeling that develops character over time.  The leather is typically 1.2 to 1.3 mm or (2.5 to 2.75 oz) and can come smooth or grainy. Like all vegetable tanned leather fully shrunken grains will pop up and create ripples over time especially after getting wet that will mould the jacket to the wearer and develop character.

 

Shinki Horsehide Full-Grain Suede

 

This leather is a full grain Horsehide suede that is chrome tanned. The leather is highly flexible and feels chamois-soft on the surface. Made as a special run for Himel Bros., it was designed to replicate the early suedes of California and Block tanneries. What makes it special is that it is not a split leather or the weaker underside of a horsehide but it is the full hide and the surface has been napped to eventually show the character of the hides underneath the suede. It has a very bendy hand and a light leathery smell. The leather is 1.2 mm or (2.5oz) and is perfect for a more fashion-forward jacket.

 

Italian Steerhide (Natural, Oxblood, Black, Dark Brown)

 

These Italian steerhides are vegetable tanned and come from the Santa Croce region of Italy.

The finishes are semi aniline or transparent coloured surface coats on 1.2 mm vegetable tanned leather. Not recommended for motorcycling this leather makes for excellent character in a more fashion/work style jacket.

 

New Zealand Deerskin (Natural White, Gloss Black)

 

The skins are sourced from farmed deer in New Zealand. The vegetable tanned leather is soft and flexible with a slight oil aroma. The natural white colour lends itself to instant wear. This style of leather in 1.2 mm (2.5oz) develops a lot of character very quickly and picks up a lot of colour from oil and dirt. The jacket will look like it is vintage within weeks of wearing the deerskin. The flexible hand of the leather makes it idea for a more fashion forward jacket. 

Black gloss deerskin feels much heavier than the white deerskin due to the weight of the drum dying and pigment finish. This leather is more durable due to the finish and has a smoother shinier look. While it is also 1.2 mm (2.5 oz) the hand feels much heavier and it is prone to develop soft folds and ripples in character very quickly.

 

American Steerhide 

This is a chrome tanned steerhide from south American cows. Chrome tanned leathers are typically stronger and more flexible then vegetable tanned leathers but take longer to form character. This leather feels easier to wear as there is more give and flex in the hides. The beauty of this type of leather is its ease of movement combined with its strength. The finish on this leather is a black/walnut oil wax finish. With dark brown undertones the hides look almost black in low light but highlight dark browns in sunlight. The hides are 1.2 mm (2.5 oz) but feel heavier due to the wax and oil finish. This leather has a broken in feel from day one.

 

How to Order

 

How to order a custom jacket:

This is a brief explanation of how to order a custom Himel Bros. leather jacket.  Many jacket buyers will have previous experience with tailoring or may own other custom pieces, and as a result have a very clear picture of their style and size. The following fitting primer is written for the first time buyer.

Selecting your style: 

Think about your fashion style.  If you ask your friends, they’ll probably be aware of your look and style.  Are you classic, a sportsman, a rockstar, a motorcyclist or maybe a hero?  Each Himel Bros. jacket has an iconic look ranging from staid to outrageous.  When selecting a jacket it’s important to take careful consideration of what works best with body type and your personal style.  The Heron, for example, has a looser fit and suits the widest range of body types, whereas the motorcycle styles are slimmer, and best suited to an athletic body type.  Typically, most people can be grouped into three main body types: the average build, the muscular build, and the husky build.  Our jackets are built for an average build, so it is important that if you are muscular or husky that you include that in a note.  We of course ask for photos in a tight t-shirt front and side to assess your posture and build. 

Selecting your size: 

Once you have been through our instagram and social media and have settled on your desired style, the next step is finding your correct size.  There are two important factors to consider in this process: your body size and jacket size.  Your chest measurement corresponds to our stock size.  For most people this is all you will need.  If your chest measurement under your armpits is 40 inches you will wear a size 40 jacket.  We have a video that shows you how to do it yourself, or you can see your local tailor (the first timer will likely need to do this).  It is important to assess your arm and waist measures as well.  Consider if you are average or if you have monkey arms or a big belly as any unusual proportions will have to be addressed through the ordering process.  Below we offer a diagram you can have filled in by a local tailor or a friend with a measuring tape.  For a first timer with an average build, our stock sizes are usually sufficient, so when in doubt stick with that. 

If you are concerned about fit and still not confident as to your correct size, you also have the option to ship us a properly fitting jacket and we’ll build-up your jacket from that.  Ideally the jacket you send us will be of a similar style to the one you’re ordering (leather jackets obviously are best for this purpose).  Before you ship us your jacket, make sure to take pictures of youself wearing it so we can assess fit: at minimum we require a side shot and a front shot. Then arrange at your cost to ship the jacket to Himel Bros.  Please note this on the order in the notes section.  Your jacket will be shipped back with your new bespoke Himel Bros. jacket.

For the more particular or tailored order, you can send us very specific measurements.  For example some gentlemen have thicker wrists or lift weights and require a different flatter shoulder slope or wider cuff.  If off the rack jackets pop up on the shoulders it is usually due to a muscular posture and you should let us know.  So in our video you can use measurements from a similar jacket in style to the one you are ordering.  Of course we would appreciate pictures of you in that jacket front and side if you are using measurements from an actual jacket.  Review the illustrations throughout this website that detail where to measure to provide us with accurate measurement for your custom jacket.  It is not required to give us all the measurements, just the ones you want changed.  Any specific custom measures or features you wish on your jacket we will need them in advance and in a note when you order. 

Picking your leather:

We provide lots of information about our leather types, colours, finishes and characteristics.  The order page gives you all the available options.  For anything else you will have to email us in advance of ordering.  Our instagram feed shows lots of examples of our custom jacket orders. 

Picking thread colour, liners and special features: 

We offer images and descriptions of all our liners, threads, buttons and zips.  Generally each style comes with its stock options on buttons and zips, however you can chose your liner and thread.  If you like to showcase our superior sewing techniques contrast thread is the best option.  If you like a flashy liner or prefer something more more staid we have options for you.  Extra pockets or other options are possible it is best to email us in advance.  You can even choose between brass or nickel silver hardware.